Message: Hello Jim I just wanted to thank you for the rear disc brakes that you set up for me on 2 of my choppers and the front sturmey hub and rim assemblies.  it feels so great to be able to stop. When your cruising 45 mph and I hit the brakes and it stops right now. There's no better feeling. Thanks again! - LELAND J. 

PLEASE READ FOLLOWING INFORMATION SO YOU CAN LEARN WHAT OPTIONS ARE AVAILABLE FOR REAR BRAKES ON A MOTORIZED OCC style Stingray:

FIRST OF ALL... 

* SUPER WIDE DISC/HUB - There is no safe/practical way to put a rear disc brake on a motorized OCC Stingray without  replacing the [stock original] rear hub with a

[DISC/HUB]. 

Problem is: a SUPER WIDE DISC/FREEWHEEL HUB  (170mm) is basically non-existent in the USA.  That is why I always keep them in stock [from China].

* RIM & TIRE - So once you have my 170mm WIDE [DISC/HUB] next, you will need a rim. 

Problem is: The only REAR RIMS available are either...

1.) Stock original rim - If you plan to use your "original" Stingray tire, then you will need to use an original Stingray rear rim (either your existing - shipped to me) or one I have in stock (single wall)   Because, original Stingray LOGO tires - will not fit on available "aftermarket" (double wall) rims as they have a larger inside diameter.

 2.) Aftermarket DOUBLE WALL rim - so... if we are using the "aftermarket" double wall rim - the tire will also have to be changed to a KENDA or similar aftermarket tire (20 x 4 1/4 = proper size). 

After the HUB/RIM/TIRE  have been determined.  I will need to know what rim color is wanted. I use only Black or Silver stainless steel spokes to build the wheels.   Rim color can be discussed.

* WHEEL BUILD - We professionally hand build ALL wheels to highest quality standards - over a decade of experience and 1,500+ "custom" wheels.

* REAR DRIVE SPROCKET  &  DISC BRAKE [COMBO] - This is the IMPORTANT PART.  After the wheel is built, it must be set up in a way to squeeze the additional equipment into the stingray frame.  This set-up requires a [NO WELD] Disc Caliper Mounting Bracket, a Disc Brake Caliper & Rotor and the correct size Rear Drive Sprocket, thinner axle lock nuts, "spacers" and Long Stainless mounting bolts. Your wheel bearings will be  heavily packed with Hi-Temp grease, bearing tension set and a NEW freewheel is attached.  Typically, an automobile "scissor jack" or similar can be used to gently spread your rear Frame "wish bone"  slightly [maybe a 1/2 inch] to make it possible to slide all the new equipment into place. SEE TOP ROW OF PHOTOS [ABOVE]

"SPLITTER" /  BRAKE CABLES -  If you are using the chain configuration I use:  pulley mounted into frame in conjunction with my CNC Motor Mount => [SEE TOP TWO RIGHT SIDE PHOTOS ABOVE] ...  You may want one of my "splitter" cables which will allow you to engage [BOTH] the stock rear caliper brake and the NEW disc brake at the SAME TIME!   OR WITH THE NEW DISC CALIPER SET-UP YOU CAN RUN [DISC BRAKE ONLY] and remove stock calipers altogether. 

 JACKSHAFT OPTION - [BOTTOM TWO PHOTOS - ABOVE]  Affords all kinds of opportunities by sending motor DRIVE POWER - over to the right side.  This is ideal for Schwinn Stingray Spoiler where you want to KEEP YOUR EXISTING stock rear disc brake intact.  ...and for other reasons - 3 speed transmission, etc.

QUESTIONS?  FILL IN FORM I WILL CONTACT YOU!