CRANK AXLES for STINGRAY FRAMES - have been unavailable till now as  they have not been manufactured since 2005...  THIS [SEALED] UNIT is 10 times better than original and a perfect fit!

Note:  you may want to remove your crank first before you order - as the  RIGHT side fitting in your stingray has to come out - before this can be used...    RIGHT SIDE crank/bottom bracket FITTING [when sitting on bike] IS REVERSE THREAD!  It is likely rusted in place pretty good.  I use LIQUID WRENCH IN THE WHITE BOTTLE and you may have to lock the fitting into a shop vise and use the frame for leverage to remove it - REMEMBER [REVERSE THREAD]    so...  you have to act like you are tightening to loosen.  Or, possibly a  local bike shop can help you remove and even install new sealed unit.

 NOTE:  THIS BOTTOM BRACKET DOES PUSH CRANK FURTHER OUT BY ABOUT 3/8 OF AN INCH SO - IF YOU INSTALL IT - CHAINGUARD WILL HAVE TO BE SPACED/RETROFITTED TO HANDLE THE CHANGE.

 # The new bottom bracket requires a tool to tighten properly although i suppose you could use vice grips on outer edge of fitting but not recommended [see tool below] 

*WORTH THE TROUBLE - but like I said - make sure you can get old fitting out prior to purchase - no refunds.

This is what is called an English Style Bottom Bracket.  This is everything you would need to refurbish your crank bearings for your OCC Chopper or most any bike that has a smaller 3 piece crank. 

Note: on installation remember the right side [crank side] is a reverse thread.  In other words turn it clockwise to loosen. 

YOU MUST HAVE A CRANK REMOVAL TOOL to remove and replace crank arms....  virtually impossible to remove crank/sprocket without crank removal tool.

If you want more pedal clearance for your motorized stingray - these are a perfect fit.  Additionally, the chainring is 44 tooth - same as original so chain length will not be affected when you use these to replace original crankset.

NO RUST - ALLOY / ALUMINUM Crank Arms.  Exact size as original = remove old cranks - install new cranks!  If you do not have one - you will need a crank puller [tool] see link: http://www.pedalchopper.com/tools/

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NO RUST - ALLOY / ALUMINUM Crank Arms.  Exact size as original = remove old cranks - install new cranks!  If you do not have one - you will need a crank puller [tool] see link: http://www.pedalchopper.com/tools/

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Product Info 

SHORTER CRANK ARMS [approximately 6 inches long].  ONLY 32 TEETH SO YOU WILL HAVE TO TAKE SOME LINKS OUT OF YOUR CHAIN. This is the crank we substitute on our "Bobber" style OCC Chopper builds.  If you want to lower your front end from stock, by cutting down your existing front fork legs or by installing a NEW / SHORTENED triple tree front fork assembly...  THE FACTORY OCC CRANK ARMS ARE TOO LONG.  So in order to keep your feet from bumping into the front tire while pedaling you must shorten your crank arms.  WE USE THESE.

SQUARE TAPER mount will match right up to your existing crank spindle.

NOT INTENDED TO BE USED WITH OCC STINGRAY. This Conversion Kit allows you to REPLACE YOUR ONE PIECE CRANK with a THREE PIECE CRANK.  Square tapered ends will receive many different style crank sets.  Has many possible applications when you are building "Custom" bikes.

Replacement Bottom Bracket Bearing set for bikes with the larger bottom brackets.  Everything you need except the crank arm.

Note:  Left side of crank [opposite of sprocket] is reverse thread - remove by turning clockwise.